Questions and Answers about Combat Robotics from Team Run Amok.

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7766 Questions and Answers about Combat Robotics
from Team Run Amok

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Different Builders, Different Timelines
Q: Hey, this is my first time trying to design a robot and build it completely from scratch. My competition is on April 29th and it is currently February 12th. I have done all the calculations for drive train. So now I am learning how to use fusion 360 and recently started designing.
  • Is it bad that I still don't have a CAD design?
  • Can you give me a time frame of how I should do things up until April 29th?
  • Any tips? [Chicago]

A: Mark J. Your event is on a Tuesday? Does that make this a school project?

It would help to know a bit about the robot you're building. Different designs, different builders, different shop tools, and differing experience levels all call for differing timetables -- but I can give some general advice.

  1. Delays in receiving parts or receiving faulty parts can scuttle your schedule. Order your parts as soon as possible and test them on arrival.
  2. It's a good idea to have one or more experienced builders take a look at a sketch of your design and suggest changes based on their experience. There are several online forums suited for this purpose -- as well as 'Ask Aaron'.
  3. If this is a school project the CAD may be a requirement, but many combat robots have been and continue to be fabricated without Computer Aided Design. You can gather your parts and use "Cardboard Aided Design" to construct a mockup of a robot and make sure everything fits before commiting to chassis dimensions and layout. See FAQ #7 and the photo of a cardboard chassis mockup below.

  4. Simple robots win. A chassis made from blocks of UHMW polyethyene held together with long wood screws is simple, durable, and easy to construct. Add top and bottom covers and you have a viable chassis. Below is a photo of "Cloud of Suspicion" with the top cover removed.

  5. Schedule time between completion of the robot and the event to become familiar with operating the robot and finding things that need to be changed. About a week is not too much time for this. Spend some of that time adjusting the settings on your R/C transmitter for improved control. See: Transmitter Tweeks for Better Driving Control

A True Story
Q: I found a post in the Robot Design Archive where you claim that Team Run Amok once won a competition with "a yam, four nails, and a girl in a mouse suit". Can this be true? Can I hear the full story? [An iCloud in the Mid-West]

A: Mark J. Yes, it is entirely true. The girl in the mouse suit had little to do with it, but the yam (it may have been a sweet potato) and the nails were critically important.

I prefer to not put the story in print as it is best told with a great many gestures, sound effects, and exagerated facial expressions. As I said in the original post, "...you'll need to buy me a beer to hear that story."


Too Squishy
Q: Hi Mark,

I have been pondering the usefulness of tangential drive for antweight (1 lb) applications, but have concerns regarding its compatibility with foam wheels. In particular, the Repeat Robotics Repeat Tangent motors seem to be effective on the likes of robots like "Super Space Turtle", but I have only seen them used with tires made via custom-molded polyurethane/rubber. Could it be that foam wheels are too "squishy" to create any meaningful contact points with the shaft or simply have a poor friction coefficient (if the latter, could this be mitigated using liquid latex/some other traction coating)? This seemed like a "too good to be true" lightweight 4WD solution. Any feedback is greatly appreciated. [Zanesville, Ohio]

A: Mark J. You are entirely correct to worry about this, Zanesville. Tangential drive (YouTube video) and squishy foam tires do not mix. The transfer of power from the drive shaft to the tire is the product of the coefficient of friction and the force by which the shaft is pressed against the tire. Power in excess of this power limit results in slippage, and getting enough force against a foam tire will depress the shaft so deeply into the tire that drive force vectors would no longer be 'tangential' and power transfer efficiency plummets -- with or without a traction coating on the tire.

  • Note that pressing hard against a tire may place considerable side-loading on the motor shaft. This is a type of load that most hobby brushless outrunners are not designed to accommodate.
  • Note also that the tangential drive video linked above has the test bed operating at low power and not doing any high-resistance pushing. Gears don't slip under high loading, but friction drive can. I like gears.
Extra Credit:  A tangent-drive antweight with 2.0" diameter drive wheels has a calculated top speed of 12 MPH. If the drive train is modified to accept 1.5" wheels, what will the calculated top speed of the robot be?

  1. 16 MPH
  2. 12 MPH
  3.   9 MPH
  4.   8 MPH

Stubby Shaft Solutions
Q: I'm a new bot builder trying to build an ant for the first time entirely on my own. I'm planning on doing a servo four-bar lifter and I'm planning to use four 30.4mm diameter 14mm wide LEGO tires. I'm curious about what you'd recommend for the drive motors to go with those wheels, given that the robot is a control bot. I've only build heavily aggressive horizontals before so it's a little different.

I was thinking n20s/30s (but I could totally be wrong) but all the ones I can find that actually have specs have a mere 8.6mm long shaft. Is there a good way to use those short shafts in a wheel that is nearly double the width? I see people all over using them with little to no issues but every time I have tried to it has not gone well because the shaft was wobbly because it was just not long enough. [Purdue, University]

A: Mark J. Good quality N20 gearmotors would have ample power for your control ant, but the gearboxes are potato chip fragile. In the 150 gram class they're fine, but even with wheel protection they don't survive well in full combat one-pound ants. For full combat I can't recommend anything without a stout planetary gearbox -- something like the Repeat Robotics Brushed Mk2. They are larger and heavier than N20s, but two would be enough.

If you're building for the plastic ant class you could certainly give N20s a shot. If you do a web search for N20 long shaft you'll find multiple choices for both threaded and smooth shafts in assorted lengths. The pictured example (fingers for scale) from eBay has a 23mm long shaft. Cheap eBay N20s typically have low-power motors, but you can swap in the high-power carbon brush robot motors if needed.

I must note that it is unusual to first pick your wheels and then design the drivetrain around them.


Enter the Asymmetric
Q: Hey, I want to build an asymmetrical beater bar weapon. I plan to use a Badass 1360 Kv motor, 21.6 voltage battery, and a 2:1 ratio gearbox. Can you guide me through using the team amok spinner weapon calculator? I'm confused on how to use it to make an asymmetrical beater bar. [Miami, Florida]

A: Mark J. I'm curious about the weight class of your robot. At 6.56 ounces the BadAss 2825 1360 Kv motor is too small for a hobbyweight, but if you're building a beetle you'd do better with a smaller motor and a heavier beater.

The Spinner Weapon Kinetic Energy Calculator lets you assemble and model a symmetric design from the geometric shapes available in the calculator, but an asymmetric design requires specialized center of mass and rotational inertia functions that the calculator cannot perform -- you'll need a CAD program for that. When you have your asymmetric weapon design, here's how to enter it into the calculator for modeling:

  • The CAD program you use to design your asymmetric beater bar will be able to provide the weapon Moment of Inertia .
  • Enter that value into the Asymmetric: MOI field in the Weapon Elements section of the calculator and leave the other fields blank.
  • In the Brushless Weapon Motor section enter your 'BadAss' motor data:
  • Kv: 1360
  • Ri: 13 mΩ
  • Volts: 21.6
  • Reduction: 2 to 1
  • Click Calculate .
The calculator will not have enough information to calculate Weapon Mass or Tip Speed but will give Weapon Speed and Kinetic Energy. Your CAD program can provide weapon mass, and if you want tip speed go back up to Weapon Elements and enter your weapon radius in the Impactors field, leaving the mass at zero.
I have added the above Q&A to the Spinner Calculator: Example Analyses page.

Wants to Calculate by Hand
Q: What is the exact formula to calculate each of these for my weapon: spin up time, RPM, and KE? I know you guys have a calculator but I want to calculate by hand. [Chicago, Illinois]

A: Mark J. Yea, and I want a deep dish pizza -- but I won't write up a synopsis of the eleventh and twelfth weeks of Mechanical Engineering 230 to get one. I don't suppose you'd like to research by hand as well?

The problem with simply handing out equations is that you need background in the subject to understand when and how to apply them. Then you'll find out that you require additional equations to supply the inputs to the first set of equations, and then if your weapon is a complex shape you throw out the equations and integrate r2dm over the entire object. How good is your calculus?

Quick and dirty:

  • Moment of Inertia for your weapon plugs into the kinetic energy equation below. Here is a list of equations to obtain the the moment of inertia for basic geometric shapes. If your weapon can be represented as a combination of these shapes, calculate the MoI for each part and add them up: Moment of Inertia Formulas. Wait, those formulas leave out mass -- This link is better.
  • RPM is the speed constant for your motor (Kv) times the applied voltage divided by the reduction ratio of your weapon drive. This approximation does not consider aerodynamic drag, which increases with the cube of speed. Super high RPM will simply not be attained regardless of what this approximation says.
  • Kinetic Energy = 1/2 × I × ω2 where "I" is the Moment of Inertia of the weapon and "ω" is the weapon's angular velocity expressed in radians per second. Radians per second = RPM × 2π/60.
  • Spin-up Time is a calculus thing that I'm not gonna try to walk you thru here -- but there is a handy shortcut that relies on the relationship between joules and average watt-seconds of motor output. I've got a whole webpage that outlines that process with plenty of equations: Estimating Weapon Spin-up Time.
Whatever answers you get be sure to check them against one of our calculators, and make sure you give me credit on your homework.
Non-Parallel Problem
Q: In a 4-bar lifter, what would be the adverse effects if the pivots on my 2 pairs of bars are not on the same plane, like the servo is a few cm off the floor and the other 2 pivots are mounted on the roof? (This is not Iceywave, fyi) [Newton, Mass]

A: Mark J. It's very common (and often advantageous) for the base of a 4-bar lifter to set in a plane angled relative to the plane of the top bar. The image below shows the layout of the 4-bar lifter for our beetleweight 'Zpatula' as modeled by the Team Run Amok 4-Bar Lifter Spreadsheet. Note that the rear pivot on the base frame sets well above the front pivot; it is typically the rear pivot that is elevated.

I suggest that you download the lifter spreadsheet (requires Microsoft Excel) and use it to evaluate designs with differing element lengths and pivot positions. It takes a while to find a design that combines the desired lifter motion with a consistent motor torque requirement. Have fun.


Wired Remotes Rule
Q: Wired remote control different structure [Maharashtra, Bharat]

A: Mark J. Sure. Try this:


More Reduction Please
Q: Hello, I am trying to build a 30Lb combat robot and I am dipping into some new electronics I haven't used before. For my drive I have 2, Andymark 775 redlines, geared down by a ratio of 10. I am using 2 Vex Talon SRX ESCs for both motors. For the weapon system I am using a Castle 2028 800Kv brushless motor, with a Mamba monster X esc. My batteries are Powerhobby 4S 15.2V 4200mah 120C GRAPHENE + HV Lipo Battery.

I want to run these batteries in series to provide 8S for the weapons system, while allowing the drive motors to run off each individual battery at 4S. The talons can handle 4S but the redlines are 12V motors. So I'll just change the rate through my drone controller to output less voltage. The castle weapon system is kind of what I'm new at. I have never used it before and I don't want to fry anything with the power system I am trying to implement. Can you help with advanced wiring diagrams for this system? [Bloomington or maybe Hartford]

A: Mark J. I had a similar question two years ago from a builder using dual 3S LiPos for the same purpose. There are some options to consider and some things to watch out for when attempting this type of circuitry; I'll direct you to the original 2023 post for the full set of diagrams and a discussion of pros and cons. Just substitute your 4S batteries in for the 3S batteries in the diagrams. Note also that your Talon SRX ESCs do not have battery eliminator circuits to power your receiver, so you will use the 3-wire cable from the weapon ESC for receiver power. You didn't ask for comments on your components, but I will note that a 10:1 reduction for the AndyMark 775 Redline motors is low for a 30lb 'bot. With 3 inch wheels a 20:1 reduction would be about right: see Optimizing Combat Robot Drivetrains. The AndyMark Redlines are quite commonly run at 6S voltage in combat robots so you should have no issues running them at full 4S voltage if you run them with an appropriate gear reduction.


No Steering Wheel
Q: drive train [Madhya Pradesh, Bharat]

A: Mark J. I've never actually tried, but it shouldn't be very hard. You can only go where the rails go, so just give it a little throttle and toot the whistle once in a while.

 

One... Two... Three...
Q: On a previous post (can't remember which one) you said flippers like 'Lucky' and 'Ziggy' wouldn’t be classified as three-bar lifters. Where’s the fourth bar?

- sincerely, Iceywave [West of San Antonio ✪]


A: Mark J. The gif you sent along with your question does not accurately depict the flipper mechanisms of 'Ziggy' (pictured below) and 'Lucky'. Both use true four-bar mechanisms with a short rear element. Bar mechanisms have no sliding elements. More about 4-bar mechanisms.

From a 2015 post in part two of the Robot Weapons archive:

The internet is full of references to '3-bar' mechanisms, but this is a misnomer. What they're calling a '3-bar' is actually a '4-bar' in which they fail to count the base as the 4th bar. A true 3-bar mechanism forms a triangle and has zero degrees of motion freedom - it won't move at all. Lifters use a 4-bar mechanism. Don't spread the incorrect 3-bar usage.

Q: Ohhhhh… that makes sense. I've corrected my flipper animation to be more accurate. Thanks!

- sincerely, Icewave


P.S. did anyone win this year’s 'Most Prolific Contributor Award'?

A: Repeating the 'Most Prolific Contributor' award would be poor game theory - it would be expected. For 2024 I gave a "Most Prolific Answerer Award" - it was delicious.


Conditional Bests and Worsts
Q: A question I'm sure you’re used to getting is: "What's the best combat robot ever?" The answer is either redacted, redacted, or some obscure beetleweight that won a single tournament, then retired before it could rack up any losses. But something I've been wondering is: What's the best combat robot to NOT win a championship? (Best win/loss ratio, or most fights won total)

Another question: What robot has the worst win/loss ratio, or most losses total?
- sincerely, Iceywave [West of San Antonio ✪]

A: Mark J. I do get a lot of "Who's Best" questions, but I direct them to Reddit where such questions belong and are frequently discussed. I'm pleased that you deflected to questions with more quantitative answers.

It is a great shame that BotRank.com crashed and burned. For many years they kept by far the best records of combat robot tournament results and analysis -- until event organizers decided that it was too much bother to send in their tournament results. In 2021 the BotRank data base corrupted and, without new data being submitted, it just wasn't worth the effort to repair. A great shame that reflects poorly on event organizers.

Fortunately, the Wayback Machine has a working mostly pre-corruption copy of BotRank from May of 2021 that is useful for historical questions such as you pose. A few highlights:

  • Heavyweight (220) with the most wins: "Sewer Snake" (81)
  • Heavyweight (220) with the most losses: "Sewer Snake" (34)
  • Heavyweight (220) with the best win percentage (no title and 10+ wins): "Voltronic" (70.6% - 12 wins 5 losses)
  • Heavyweight (220) with the lowest win percentage (10+ matches): "redacted" (20.0% - 3 wins 12 losses)
  • Any Weight Class: highest win percentage (30+ matches): antweight "Dark Pounder" (87.1% - 81 wins 12 losses)
I'll let you sift thru the archived BotRank for other 'bests' and 'worsts'.
Side Note - Although Combat Robot Hall of Fame member 'Rust in Peace' does not appear in the BotRank database, it has a verified record of 45 wins and 2 losses for a 95.7% win percentage. If you are willing to judge a robot by its performance at the time and place of its career, that puts it in contention for the most dominant combat robot of all time.

Maybe a School Project
Q: Working on making a small battle bot that will fit within a cubic foot. Could you recommend a power supply to use if we need to power 2 motors of 12V and 2 Amps. [Lima, Ohio]

A: Mark J. I don't know of any robot combat event that requires a competitor to fit in a "cubic foot", so can I assume this is a low-budget school project?

Matching a battery pack to a combat robot requires more information than you have provided. I can only give you a couple of general options:

  • The limited motor specs you provide would be common for a one-pound 'antweight' combat robot. A typical antweight robot with such motors might use a rechargeable 3S Lithium Polymer battery of about 300 mAh capacity. Lithium batteries are both light and compact but they require a specialized charger and must be charged and stored with care to prevent spontaneous fires. The cost of such a battery plus an inexpensive 3S charger could be around $40.
  • Some budget minded robot builders run their antweight robots on an 9-volt alkaline battery via an adapter cable. Your 12-volt motors will run a bit slower on 9-volts but will operate well enough. Alkaline batteries cannot be recharged, but a good quality 9 volt battery might power a simple antweight robot for over an hour before replacement.
I will mention that combat robot motors are often "over-volted" to provide greater power and speed. If you switched to 6-volt motors, they would provide improved performance over equivalent 12-volt motors when run on a 9-volt battery. Most small 6-volt gearmotors will survive quite well at 9-volts for the short periods combat robots are operated -- if the wheel size and drive train gear reduction are reasonable.
The Brushless Version
Q: Humorous Post Is there a specific transmitter you recommend to help control the ludicrous speed of brushless drive motors used in insect-class combat robots? [Brushless Hipster]

A: Mark J. You're in luck. Check out the 'Master Speed Control' on the new FlySky FS-i6 'Brushless Version':


Check the Charge
Q: I'm wiring up a beetleweight Peter Bar Kit with Rectified Robotics 35A bi-directional ESCs and Repeat Robotics Max Drive motors. On power up the drive ESC lights go blue, then quickly solid red. The drive works but the throttle is inconsistent. Sometimes there is limited power and sometimes the motors will run full speed. Any thoughts in what is causing the solid red light? [Redacted] A: Mark J. Have you checked the charge on your LiPo pack? A red LED on those reprogrammed READYTOSKY ESCs is a low voltage warning: maybe reading voltage too low for a 4S but too high for a 3S. Put a full charge on your battery and give it another try.

You might also want to clean up those solder connections and remove the stray solder on a couple of your power chips. It looks like your soldering iron has too little heat for this type of work. Some soldering paste and pre-tinning the wires would help a good bit, as would some practice on something less sensitive and expensive than an ESC.


Can You Trust the Gerbil?
Q: Hello, I am wondering what thickness of TPU I should use for my beetleweight minibot? I started off with quarter inch, but it turned out to be to heavy. What should I do? [South of Hartford, Connecticut]

A: Mark J. See Frequently Asked Questions #17.


Pssst! Down here... It's me, Rodger the Web Gerbil.

Mark is kinda touchy about questions that don't provide the silly little details that might give him a chance to come up with a quantified answer. This time though, I think he missed something. I have access to all of his notes and the exotic software that he doesn't share with the robot community, and I found this equation filed under "If All Else Fails":

cos2 (x) + sin2 (x) × (eix + e-ix )2 / 4 + sin2 (x) × (e2ix + e-2ix ) / 4 + e2ln(sin(x)) + 1/2 = What Should I Do?
Plugging your values into the equation I get: "Make it thinner 'cause making it thicker won't make it lighter."

They Don't Get It
Q: What do your combat robots think of the current COVID-19 pandemic? [Kansas City, Missouri]

A: Mark J. My robots don't care. My robots don't spread, suffer from, or die from Covid-19 -- but you can. Don't be selfish. Follow the science. Stay safe.


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Q: how can robots help us deal better with hurricanes and why? [Ontario, California]

A: [Aaron] Few people in Nebraska are threatened by hurricanes, so send a swarm of killer robots into low Atlantic and gulf coastal areas to drive the puny human inhabitants toward Nebraska. Problem solved.

Robot haiku:

That's obviously
A question from your homework.
Do your own research.

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